Most years we sit down on January 1st and determine our backpacking trip for the year. This year was not like most years. Instead, we sat down on July 4th to decide the terms of our August vacation. With the March trip to Utah falling flat (hard race, knee injury, snow precluding backpacking trip), and with the knowledge that we wouldn’t need flight reservations for our second destination of the year, there was less pressure (and frankly, less desire) to plunge hot and heavy into trip planning.
We will be revisiting a spot we’ve been to twice before. A pristine wilderness that takes effort to reach. We are talking about the largest island in the largest fresh water lake in the world…. Isle Royale (pronounced as Royal). Sitting in Lake Superior, Isle Royale is an island 45 miles in length, 15 miles in width, “owned” by Michigan despite its proximity to Canada and Minnesota, and home to the long-studied special ecological system of moose and wolves. Here’s an excerpt from the Isle Royale National Park website:
The ecological study of wolves on Isle Royale is the longest running large mammal predator-prey study on earth. The park celebrated the study's 50th anniversary in 2008. Research has shown that all members of the Isle Royale wolf population have descended from a single female, who arrived during the late 1940s. This intense level of inbreeding has led to a 50 % loss of genetic variability within the population today. Genetic information also suggest that the island's moose population is most closely related to moose in northwestern Minnesota, perhaps challenging the long-held idea that moose swam across the lake to reach Isle Royale. Did humans bring them here?
A venture by foot, canoe or kayak into the park's interior can transport one back thousands of years. Around 11,000 years ago, two miles of ice lay on top of Isle Royale, pressing it down into the earth and sculpting its topography. This same ice sheet gave birth to Lake Superior as well as hundreds of inland lakes, ponds and bogs. The Greenstone Ridge, which forms the backbone of Isle Royale, is thought by many geologists to be a portion of the largest lava flow on earth. All in all, Isle Royale is a fascinating ecosystem to study.
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| The red dot, "A", is Isle Royale. The white line separates the U.S. from Canada |
There are no bears on this island, and few other mammals save for snowshoe hair and fox, so this is always a welcome bonus for us, as we don’t have to worry about putting our food into the trees or bringing a bear canister. It will also be refreshing to do a road trip closer to home for a change. That’s what I say now, but let’s hear what I have to say 10 hours later when we reach Grand Portage, MN (the upper NW corner of the state)! We’ll spend the night at a lodge and the next morning we’ll board a ferry for a 2-hour jaunt to Windigo at the western end of the island. We have a 5-day, 5-night backpacking route planned for the last week of August. By that time of year, the mosquitoes and black flies should be done, but it could still get quite hot or become stormy. Unlike the typical late-August weather of our beloved western mountains where it’s in the 70’s with blue skies and occasional clouds mid-day over high mountain peaks, the weather on a Lake Superior island is not as predictable. It’s been 7 years since we last stepped foot on Isle Royale, and it is likely this will be our last time – I’m hopeful it will redeem our Utah disappointments and create rosy final memories of a special wilderness.